Tuesday, August 23, 2016

BWCA - Always Something New


Every August we head north to the border country. We try to leave the house early—say 8:15—and pick up a sandwich at the Northern Waters Smokehaus in Duluth, having previously purchased a huge bag of chips at a gas station. A half-hour later it's a quick picnic on the billion-year-old lava flows at Gooseberry Park. At the ranger station in Tofte we watch the obligatory video about wilderness manners--approved methods of gathering firewood, picking up twisties left by your boorish predecessors at the campsite, and filtering the water (we never do). Finally we hit the lake. It's ten minutes to three. Not bad!

A slight wind at our back, easy paddling up the lake for an hour, familiar scenes, the bay where we saw the moose in the distance, the rocky channel where we sometimes bang the canoe. Utter peace and quiet, though another canoe has been moving slowly up the far side of the lake. We might be traveling at two miles an hour, sitting erect in the canoe, rhythmically stroking. There is no faster way to do it, and anyway, who would want to?

The big question is, which (if any) campsites will be open on the north end?

There's a nice one just beyond the narrows, a mile and a half up the lake, but some kids are swimming there, and a woman is leaning against a rock as if she's posing for a travel brochure circa 1925. I was tempted to shout out: "Are you guys camping there?" but it looked pretty obvious, though I never caught sight of a tent.

There was smoke rising from the trees at the campsite behind the island on the west shore. Soon a tent came into view at the classic rock-shelf site in the middle of the upper arm. We continued north to the campsite in the shallow bay where the creek comes out, along the way glancing through a channel with binoculars to verify that the premier campsite in the east bay was occupied. (It was.)

The site we were headed for was a good one, and it proved to be open. Hallelujah!


It's true, we camped here for three days two years ago, due to the fact that our canoe sprang a leak. It would have been nice to have a new point of perspective on the lake. But I'm not complaining. If all the campsites in the vicinity had been filled, it would have been another half-hour of paddling (mostly in the opposite direction) to reach another one.

When you reach camp that first night, the subliminal fog of campsite anxiety lifts. It feels good to be back in the North Woods, and this campsite holds a lot of memories. A moose once appeared in the creek right behind the tent at sunset, right there. Four loons cavorted in the mist one morning, right there in the bay. A beaver once swam right up to shore while we were sitting nearby reading, just to see who was there.       

This time the great event turned out to be overhead. We had eaten a freeze-dried dinner (some sort of lasagna) and I then made a fire to keep us amused until the moon came up. Darkness descended, the moon rose but was still obscured by the trees, and three bright stars appeared low in the southern sky. It was obvious to me that several of them were planets. One was a huge, red, shimmering orb; the second, maybe ten degrees to the east, was also red and shimmering, though smaller. A third "star," white rather than red, was fifteen degrees above that second star, forming a brilliant triangle that you don't normally see in that part of the night sky.

I tried to remember what I'd read back home in my daily online astronomy report. Something about Saturn reversing direction, though I couldn't remember the details or the technical terms. Suddenly it occurred to me that I was looking at the constellation Scorpio. So that huge red "star" might well be Antares. But it was much bigger than usual, Maybe a planet was directly in front of it?


Such speculations ended in a resolve to "look it up when we get home." At the time, the sight itself was mysterious, awesome. A portent? Not likely. But it looked thrilling framed by pines in a southern sky that had not yet grown dark.

(I did look it up when we got home. The huge red twinkling orb was Mars. The smaller red orb was Antares. The bright white "star" above was Saturn.)

As the moon rose above the trees, the campsite was bathed in moonlight. The fire was still doing well, and we nursed the remaining wood to keep it alive as long as possible.


At times like this, it's enough just to stand in the dark and look at the fire or the sky and listen to nothing. But as we stood there, I heard something moving through the woods on the other side of the bay. It wasn't the frisky hops of a squirrel, which can sound like the approach of a much larger mammal. It wasn't as dramatic as the thrashing, crashing sounds of a moose that's rubbing velvet off his antlers, moaning all the while.

This was a leafy, dragging sound, followed by a soft "fuff, fuff, fuff, fuff."

"What the hell is that!" I said.

"That sounds like a beaver gnawing on a tree," Hilary said. In the dark? The guy must have been hungry.
   
Soon I heard a second sound coming from the same direction, like the muted moan of a human baby crossed with the meow of a cat. Again and again. Was this a juvenile beaver saying, 
"Come on, Mom, let's go home"?

These are the little things that you remember from a canoe trip. Also, the explosion of mushrooms on a portage trail, the incessant cheeping from the spruce trees near camp that turn out to be a family of myrtle warblers, the sunsets that you watch for an hour, taking note of each subtle change in illumination until the entire world goes dark and all you've got is your flashlight.


We make camp early and read in the afternoon. It's important to bring several books--not necessarily about "nature." On this trip my little BWCA library consisted of The Unwritten Philosophy by F.M. Cornfield; So Long, See You Tomorrow, by William Maxwell; A Little Misunderstanding of No Importance, by Antonio Tabucchi; and a Penguin anthology, A Book of English Essays.

I read Oliver Goldsmith's description of an evening at Vauxhall Gardens. And I read Richard Smoley's description of his years as a student at Oxford in a book called The Dice Game of Shiva. I read a story by Tabucchi called "Bitterness and Clouds." But I didn't read much.


After spending four or five hours in the sun, I'm more likely to be listening to the canoe rattling against the rocks as it bobs in the wind. It isn't a soothing sound. The gentle lapping of the waves against the aluminum is pleasant, but the metal clanging lightly against the rock is less so. If I was up at the campsite, I'd be looking down toward the landing from time to time to see if the canoe was floating away.

We saw a vole run across the path one afternoon. And on another occasion a huge blue dragonfly landed on the leg of my shorts and clung there so long, seemingly quite content, that I decided I'd walk over to the pack, get out my camera, and take a picture. After three or four steps he took off. But I thank him for the visit.

On our second day we portaged in to Burnt Lake. Something new. The water there is green, rather than blue. The lake is 23 feet deep at its deepest point. (I looked it up later). It's a decent lake, but not a great lake. We secured the last open campsite at 11:30 in the morning. Four hours later two canoes went by. There was nothing down that way except a single campsite, out of sight behind a reedy island but already occupied by two fishermen and their three sons.

Later I saw the two canoes coming back up the far side of the bay, maybe 500 yards away. I had difficulty imagining where they were going to spend the night.

A noisy and aggressive red squirrel had gnawed through the canvas of our food pack, which we'd left lying on the ground. I hung it by a rope from a tree branch and five minutes later I noticed he'd shimmied down the rope and was gnawing away again. We kept that pack in the tent that night. (A calculated risk ... but we haven't encountered a bear up here in thirty years.)


Around dinnertime a storm approached. The clouds were magnificent. Sunlight penetrated the wall of rain from the side, turning it into a golden curtain.

On our third day we came upon a magnificent campsite on the NW arm of Sawbill Lake. (If you know the area, you can see we're just puttering around.) What makes a campsite magnificent? Lots of rocks, open space, shade...and three rock-shelf reading rooms facing south onto the lake.

The swimming here was grand.

In late afternoon we took a short portage and then paddled up the Kelso River, which was utterly still and beautiful as the air got cooler and the shadows from the west shore grew longer.


Our camp stove had quit working, but we scraped together enough wood without working too hard to heat a pot of water, and we fixed a simple meal. It came in a foil bag and was called "Wild Thyme Turkey" but there was no thyme in it. I'm not sure there was any turkey. It consisted of a soupy stew with chewy TVP-like bits, half-cooked peas, isolated pieces of wild rice that had never opened...and so on. All the same, it was hot and it tasted good enough.

There were four loons out in the bay--two adults and two juveniles, all of them the same size. We sat watching them move silently across the water as we ate our meal. One of the adults occasionally extended his neck at an awkward angle and emitted a loud plaintive call.

 The North Woods is like a deck of cards: always the same, yet always dealing out something new.  

Monday, August 15, 2016

On the Fringes of the Fringe Fest


I like the new Fringe Fest concept: buy a wrist band for $16.00 and you're into every show you want to see on that particular day (presuming it doesn't sell out). After you've seen one, why not see another one?

Our attention was focused on the production of Orpheus and Eurydice by Garden of Song Opera at the Mixed Blood Theater. It  takes a lot from Gluck's opera of 1762 but also quite a bit from Shelly Duvall's Fractured Fairy Tales. It's a good mix.

Until the explosion of interest in Baroque opera a few decades ago (Explosion? How about an occasional tremor?) Orpheus and Eurydice was the oldest opera to be performed regularly, and it still is. It has some of the aristocratic languor that fell from favor during the classical period...but not too much of it. The drama moves ahead, the story-line is simple, and the melodies are lovely. In fact, although the work is never dull, the tunes are so uniformly pleasant that I had to ask myself several times, during the Fringe performance, whether a vocalist was singing the same aria she'd sung before.


The three voices (mezzo Sara Fanucchi, coloratura soprano Betsie Feldkamp, soprano Carmelita Guse) were uniformly strong, and also varied in timbre to match the roles. The use of piano accompaniment was strangely effective, and the removal of an hour of the music and dance from the original opera didn't affect the storyline much. There was passion and humor, torment and dejection, but also sight-gags and theatrical hijinks here and there to keep the audience amused. 

Orpheus finds a first-aid kit in his satchel. Cupid tippy-toes effortlessly across the stage with arms raised like a ballerina.

More important than anything is the fact that the music shines through.

In Gluck's opera (spoiler alert!) Orpheus succeeds, with Cupid's help, in bringing Eurydice back from the underworld. In most versions of the original Greek myth, he looks back at the last minute and she returns to the land of the dead once and for all. Then he goes crazy with sorrow and is ripped to shreds by wild animals.
 
Gluck's version is romantic. But is it shallow? The Greek version is darker and more fatalistic. But does the turn of events actually mean anything?

No one seems to know. Both Freud and Jung took a shot at meaning, but both fell well short of coming to grips with the central issue, which doesn't involve Orpheus or Eurydice at all. The central question is, why did Hades insist that Orpheus never look back? Is this a love story or a contest between Orpheus (the greatest musician in history) and Eurydice (which means "wide justice")?

Or does it come down to the fact that at a critical juncture, the great musician flubbed his timing?

Plenty of ink has been spilled on the issue.  I've been perusing (alongside my Ovid, Calasso, and Robert Graves) a book called Orpheus: the Song of Life, by Ann Wroe. She examines the musician's character from every angle and considers every source and variation from Homer to Jean Cocteau—who made a film version of the story, complete with beatniks, mirrors, and limousines. But Wroe is content to present us with alternative interpretations based on wide-ranging research, trusting in her open, speculative approach and limpid prose to obscure the fact that she never really arrives at a conclusion about the meaning of this or any other tale in which Orpheus is involved.

Well, I can live with the mystery, though I also enjoy a happy ending.

From the Mixed Blood Theater we wandered over to the U of M's Barker dance studio to see a performance called The Seven-Colored Bird. This, too, had a mythic story-line, both more modern and more primitive than the opera we'd just seen. The narrator (whose text could easily have been edited down a bit) kept harping on death, which lurks in the shadows, as he told a tale of mother-daughter rivalry, a journey to repair a broken vase past trees without fruit and oceans without fish. The story was grim but the dancing was robust, as the young and agile traveler was initially transfixed by, and then threatened by, the elements she met one after the other. In each case she escapes, and also offers to help these unhappy creatures bear fruit.


I especially liked the ocean dancers in their frothy turquoise gowns. The seven-colored bird (played as a unit by three dancers) was impressive but malevolent—I think that was the idea. There were interesting hand gestures and quite a bit of rolling around on the floor. The soundtrack consisted of a succession of pop tunes performed by radically different artists, each with a distinct sound and energy. Yet the mash-up worked.  

Now thoroughly in the mood, we stuck around for one last dance performance in the same theater called Life, Beautiful. Here the dancing was more precise, perhaps, and the dancers more lithe, but the first three pieces took me back to the days of the Danny Kaye Show: plastic smiles, "jazzy" steps, expert but heartless movement. A few of the subsequent numbers had depth: sorrow, carrying each other around, climbing aboard the body, heavy on the strings.

There was too much going on in the Cities last week:not only the week-long Fringe Fest, but the Early Music Fest, the Source Song Fest, the Irish Fest. On Sunday afternoon we attended a free piano recital associated with the Polish Fest at St. Anthony Main at which Michael Lu absolutely killed Prokofiev's Seventh Piano Sonata. And a very young performer named Madeline Pape brought some depth of feeling to a Rachmaninoff prelude, too.

Saturday, August 6, 2016

In Praise of Meadowlands, Minnesota


Minnesota is famous for its North Woods, a biome that it shares with no other state. It's also a midwestern agricultural powerhouse—a less distinctive quality it shares with Iowa, Wisconsin, and Illinois.

But between these two zones there's a region that's not much good for farming, has no valuable mineral deposits, and also lacks the exposed bedrock and countless pristine lakes that make the border country so appealing. It tends to be boggy or sandy, and if there were any marketable trees in the vicinity, they're long gone.

Places like Meadowlands.

But perhaps I'm only thinking of Meadowlands because I like the name, and I went there yesterday.

Meadowlands (population 143) lies south of Hibbing (but not on the Iron Range) east of Grand Rapids (though it's not a big lumbering center), and west of Duluth (but without a hint of Lake Superior glamour). It was once the headquarters of the Schniedermann Furniture company, but no longer. It's not on any major highway, and although there's a sign pointing the way at the turnoff from Highway 73, just north of Floodwood, the next two or three intersections aren't marked, so if you're heading that way, I strongly recommend bringing along a good map.


You might also want to bring some snacks. The town's only restaurant, the Trailside Bar and Grill, looks a little shaky to me. (Though it gets a few good reviews on Yelp!)  

Nowadays Meadowlands is famous largely as the conurbation closer than any other to the Sax-Zim Bog.

The Sax-Zim Bog is well-known in birding circles are the best place in the lower 48 states to see boreal species such as the great grey owl, the boreal chickadee, the spruce grouse, and the hawk owl, and also such elusive species as the le Conte sparrow and the Connecticut warbler. Every winter people show up from Florida, California, and Texas hoping to add to their life lists. Sometimes they hire a guide from Duluth to make sure they do.

We had no intention of going to Meadowlands when we left the house. Our chosen destination was Savannah Portage State Park, which is located nearby in a hardly less obscure part of the state.

Two hundred and fifty years ago Savannah Portage was a six-mile slog through a swamp from a pathetic tributary of the St. Louis River to a feeble tributary of the Mississippi. It was used by the voyageurs to move trade goods and furs back and forth from the Great Lakes into the watershed of the Mississippi. Researchers today have trouble determining exactly where it went, which isn't that surprising: a muddy trail through the reeds can vanish almost overnight, and in this part of the world the fur trade was largely over by 1820. All the same, the upland sections have been charted and turned into a hiking trail.

The park is sort of like the portage—remote, obscure, under-appreciated. But there are four or five  lakes within its border and many miles of hiking trails across eskers, moraines, and other hilly glacial debris.

Before leaving the house I checked to park's website. At that time there were four campsites open along the lakefront, and I reserved the one that, judging from the rudimentary map, was near the lake and had a lot of unoccupied real estate on its northern flank. What I imagined would be a thick privacy belt turned out to be an open, grassy sward leading down to the fishing dock. Oops!


Yet the site turned out to be wonderful. A few people passed by with fishing poles in the course of the afternoon. And two young girls (age 12, Hilary took a guess) came and went several times,  playing some plasticized ball game in the field sloping down toward the lake. We were also out and about ourselves, circumnavigating the lake in a canoe, and later swimming at another of the park's several lakes, where we met a young couple and their adopted son. The day was very hot, and the water was pleasantly cold.

After dinner we sat on the bench looking out past the dock toward the opposite shore. The girls were goofing around on the dock, and they squealed with delight when they spotted a large snapping turtle swimming around in the shadows  underfoot.

Then a man from Brainerd showed up with his granddaughter, and gave us the low-down of what had been going on in the campground in the last few days.

"You should go down and see the snapping turtle," I said. "We haven't seen it, but we've heard several reports."


The mother of the two girls crossed the field in front of us, heading for the dock. All three of them said hi as they made their way back to their campsite across the grass. The two girls reappeared ten minutes later and came over to our bench. One of them said, "I took a video of the turtle. Do you want to see it?"  

That was sweet. Of course we did.

As dusk descended, we went out onto the dock ourselves, where a couple we hadn't seen before  was standing around.

"You aren't the people we saw fishing this afternoon when we were out in the canoe?" I asked.

"No. We're from Pipestone," the woman said.  She was pregnant. He was standing a good ways off, leaning on the rail, smoking a thin cigar.

"People were seeing a big snapper under the dock," I said. "But it's too dark to see much now."

"Is the water clear here?" she asked." Where we come from, all the lakes are green."

To make them feel more at home, I said, "We were in Pipestone just a month ago. We went to the Monument. Ate lunch at Leng's."

Then I said, "Do you hear that chattering, rattling sound on the far side of the lake? That's a kingfisher."

"And what's that sound?" the man asked, smiling but unsure of himself,  as a big belch spread over the lake.

"That's a frog," Hilary said.

"Have you ever heard a loon?" I asked.

"No," the woman said.

"Well, you'll hear one tonight. It sounds like this." And I gave my best fluttering cupped-hand loon call. (Quite good, though it doesn't really sound like a loon.)

"We're camping here 'til Sunday," the woman said. That struck me as a long time to spend at one little state park.

"Then you should go to Duluth!" I practically exclaimed. "It's only an hour away. Have you ever seen Lake Superior?"

"I haven't. He has."

Holy Christ.

With all the coming and going, it was like a little lo-key party down on the fishing dock. I wanted to point out a few more bird calls, to make them feel more at home in the woods, but at that late hour nothing was singing.

We climbed the little hill back to our campsite, and when we crawled into the tent the sky was clear and the lake was calm. The thunderstorm arrived about three a.m. 

The roiling thunder was loud, hissing and grumbling its fierce and bizarre locutions. Flashes of lightning illuminated the tent, though it seemed few bolts of lightning were hitting the ground—it was mostly cloud to cloud. I counted the seconds between lightning and thunder. Five. The raind started to come harder but the center of the storm was probably miles away.


We weren't exactly scared, but during our time in the park we'd seen many trees that had been mercilessly twisted and snapped or ripped up root and branch during a more severe storm that passed through a week ago. My thought was that considering the severity of that event, all the trees still standing were probably pretty sturdy. Hilary reasoned that some of them might have been sorely weakened by the last assault and were now of the verge of toppling. (We discussed this only the next morning.)

It was a hot night, no need to climb into our sleeping bags. That being the case, we decided to sleep with our shoes on, in case we had to make a dash for the shower building at the top of the hill. As the storm moved in, you could feel the waves of cooler air drift into the tent. 


The day dawned bright and clear. I built a fire to heat water for the coffee (I'd forgotten to pack the stove!) and we were soon wending our way north on Aitkin County 56 and other obscure byways, past Ball Bluff and the quint, immaculate crossroads village of Jacobson, heading towards Meadowlands. 

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Seeing Nature Inside Outside


As the temperature approaches 100°, an afternoon bike trip out into the country starts to sound less like a good idea. We heading in the opposite direction, downtown, to the spacious, air-conditioned Minneapolis Institute of Arts, where the outdoors has been brought inside in an exhibit called "Seeing Nature." The show includes a heterogeneous mix of paintings spanning three centuries from the collection of Microsoft co-founder Paul G. Allen.

Although the emphasis is ostensibly on landscape, many of the painting are, in fact, cityscapes. There are six paintings of Venice alone. Claude Monet is represented by five landscapes (only one of Venice) and these are among the highlights of the show. Other impressionists and post-impressionists include Gauguin, Cezanne, Sisley, Manet, and Signac.

Be forewarned: the exhibit opens with an entire wall of dreadful paintings by Jan Breughel the Younger in which we hardly see nature at all. Each painting is dedicated to a sense—sight, touch, taste—but the paintings themselves (which are large) consist in each case of a naked woman sitting in a cavernous room cluttered with flower-petals, musical instruments, dead animals and pieces of fruit, or whatever the type of object appropriate to the sense in question might be.


Though it's easy to admire a Monet or a Canaletto, the paintings I found most interesting were by artists I was not all that familiar with. Henri Le Sidaner's "The Serenade, Venice" (1907) had a scintillating atmosphere; Gerhard Richter's "Apple Trees" (1987) looked like a blurry and inexplicably sinister photograph; Milton Averys "Dancing Trees" (1960) had a goofy mien and a very nice shade of green.


The range of styles on view is impressive overall, yet  I was a little disappointed not to find a Corot or Constable in the mix—nothing that really captures the poignancy of gray lonely days out in the fields. David Hockney's multi-panel rendering of the Grand Canyon was delightfully garish, but it didn't evoke the character of the canyon in the slightest. I wasn't seeing nature, I was seeing Hockney. The other two renderings of the canyon captured something of the subtle blues and purples that cloak the escarpments in low light ... but they lacked the requisite size.


At a certain point I began to wonder whether the thick and very ornate gilded frames within which many of the canvases were mounted were really appropriate for paintings that were supposed to help us to see beyond the art—to see nature. I spend a lot of time outdoors, and I "see" nature all the time. In comparison with the banks of black-eyed susans we'd skirted in the museum courtyard on our way to the exhibit through the afternoon heat, few of the canvases on display had much sparkle.

But perhaps I was the one without much sparkle? Maybe the heat had taken it out of me before I even arrived. I did enjoy walking through the cool, well-lit, uncrowded halls of the museum, where youth and age were in perfect balance and everyone looked bright and purposeful. Small groups were chatting in the lobby and sitting around the first-floor coffee shop; individuals were reading magazines on a few of the couches that are scattered around the gallery spaces.

On our way out of the museum we passed several rugged works by Marsden Hartley and a painting by John Sargent Singer of some donkeys in a courtyard that I'd never seen before.

Outside, it was still hot, and the black-eyed susans still looked good.


Was the show worthwhile? I would recommend it, especially on a free day. But it was not about "seeing nature." What we were seeing was civilization.

In fact, I'm thinking now that the Sisley painting of a bridge across a sunlit river was the most subtle in the entire show, and I want to see it again. Evidently I'm the only one who feels this way. It took me forever to find a digital image, and it has very little of the original's chalky glint.

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Bastille Day Meditations : Aubergines, Willows, and Mice


I got home this afternoon from an overnight excursion to the St. Croix River, where we spotted a very cute mouse in a hollow tree and a bright yellow prothonotary warbler feeding its cheeping youngsters in a thicket on the riverbank. It rained very hard in central Minnesota the other day, and the river was brown, swollen, and moving very fast.

Meanwhile, Bastille Day has caught me off-guard. It was a great stroke of luck to find half an eggplant and a big jar of artichoke hearts in the refrigerator.  The eggplant (diced) is roasting now, and I've got a CD of Richard Galliano (accordion) and Sylvain Luc (guitar) belting out the old Parisian favorites, from "La Vie en Rose" right down the line.  If that starts to sound too corny, Cajun Dance Classics is on deck in the CD changer, with some Poulenc piano music in the hole.

This dish I'm cooking up is sort of like cassoulet, and sort of like ratatouille. I've thrown in a yellow bell pepper and a diced onion,  a can of diced tomatoes and another of cannellini beans, four cloves of garlic (minced), some dried rosemary and basil along with fresh savory and parsley from our garden plot alongside the driveway, which is about the size of an ironing board.

While this mélange is cooking, I've got some time to ponder the day and the ideals of liberty and good living, though it's a little harder to do with fanatics at the podium night after night and everybody getting shot.  I've chosen as my companion and spur to thought a slim volume by the  French Novelist Michel Tournier called The Mirror of Ideas

It isn't a novel, but rather, a series of oppositions held up to one another and examined fancifully. Some are conceptual (the absolute and the relative), some are physical (the cellar and the attic), and many aren't opposed to one another at all (talent and genius, hunting and fishing).

The one I've hit upon is the alder and the willow. Both grow near water, though one thrives in bogs while the other is at home next to clear streams. The discussion soon turns to a mistranslation made by Goethe of a folktale gathered by Herder that led to creation of a famous poem, "The Alder King."

This is good stuff, and I was about to take a look at Tournier's analysis of chronology and meteorology when it occurred to me that I didn't have any bread on hand.

What's Bastille Day without bread? So I went off to the store in the rain and bought a loaf of bake-at-home bread. Not the very best, but it will certainly do to sop up the sauce. Now Hilary is home (and reading a Martin Walker mystery set in Perigord) and my thoughts are beginning to turn ever so slowly toward the wine...   

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Early Morning with Novalis - some sort of ideal


It was a fine storm—evening light,  lots of rain but no big branches down. We stood together on the front stoop, partially protected by the overhang, enjoying the cool spray while we watched the water descend in sheets. It will be good for the grass.

I went out this morning at 6 to pick up the stray leaf clusters and happened to meet our newspaper delivery man for the first time.

"How's it going?"

"Looks like you've got a little clean-up to do."

The smell of moist vegetation filled the air and I knew it was time to head down to Bassett Creek to test the water clarity. It had been reading 100+ during the dry spell, but after the runoff from a storm like this it might drop down to 40 or even 30. I was sure the DNR would like to know.

As I headed down the street my neighbor Angie was just leaving the house on her way to work, and we exchanged greetings. By a lucky chance, the CD I had in the player was perfectly suited to the morning—soprano Emma Kirky singing an angelic duet with an oboeist (who wasn't actually singing, though his instrument was "singing"). Weichet nur, Betrubte Schatten (Yield now, troubling shadows).


Down near the bridge over the creek I spotted a man I'd seen there before carrying a camera and a tripod.

"What are you looking for?" I asked.

"Dragonflies," he replied. "What's that tube for? Are you measuring the depth of the water?"

"Water clarity," I said. "I just jot down the number every so often and send in the data at the end of the summer. It's a nice excuse to get outside."


"Same with me," he laughed.

The flow in the creek was heavy, though the water level had merely returned to "normal." I lowered my plastic bucket into the creek from the bridge with a rope, hoisted some water, poured it into the tube, and pulled the string until the black and white disc suspended in the water disappeared. reading: 44.

  *   *   *
But now the sun has come out and the day's heating up. Sitting on the deck in mid-morning ( a cooper's hawk just flew by fifty feet overhead), drinking coffee, listening to the goldfinches chatter, and watching a bee hunt in vain for the last remaining flower on the dogwood bushes a few feet away. The line of emerging sunlight creeps across the deck toward my shady spot here against the dining room wall. The sky is a pale blue, the wind is rustling in the trees, the coffee has grown cold, and I'm reading Novalis, The Novices of Sais, where he writes:
"The capriciousness of nature seems of itself to fall within the idea of human personality, which is apparently best grasped in the form of a human creature. That is why poetry has been the favorite instrument of true friends of nature, and the spirit of nature has shown most radiantly in poems. When we read and hear true poems, we feel the movement of nature's inner reason and, like its celestial embodiment, we dwell in it and hover over it at once."
A few pages on, Novalis puts this speech into the mouth of one of his characters:
"To everything that man undertakes he must give his undivided attention, his self; once he has done this, miraculously thoughts arise,  or new kinds of perceptions, which appear to be nothing more than delicate, abrupt movements of a colored pencil, or strange contractions and figurations of an elastic liquid. From the point where he has transfixed the impression, they spread in all directions with a living mobility and carry his self with them."
At this point Novalis heads off down a path that scholars might consider an elaboration (or criticism) of Fichte's thought, but I have neither the background nor an interest in such things.   
"Often he can stop this movement at the onset by dividing his attention or letting it wander at random, for thoughts seem to be nothing other than emanations and effects which the self induces all around it in that elastic medium, or the refractions of the self in that medium, or in general a strange game that the waves of this ocean play with the rigidity of concentration. Strange to say, it is only though this play that man becomes aware of his uniqueness, his specific freedom; it seems to him then as though he were waking from a deep sleep, as though he had just begun to be at home in the universe, as though the light of day had just broken in upon his inner world."
Now a small white butterfly flutters by, the size of a quarter. I've gone inside to get a hat—the sunlight will soon be upon me. The goldfinches have vanished, the chickadees have arrived. A red-bellied woodpecker shrieks from nearby. Always cardinals. Now a house finch!


And now a train whistle, of all things.

I'll be heading out soon to a meeting. But now I see a tiny fly, the size of a piece of rice, on the back of the chair here beside the one I'm sitting on. Its abdomen glistens a deep turquoise, inlaid with rings of gold.  

Friday, July 1, 2016

Twin Cities Jazz Fest 2016


Saint Paul was hopping that afternoon, what with the final day of the jazz fest underway and a St. Paul Saints baseball game on the schedule a block away. That meant that the lot we used to park at for $3 was now $25. But the gravel lots east of the Black Dog have now been paved, and I would say  $7 isn't too bad for an evening of musical entertainment.

I've wanted to hear the Adam Meckler Big band for quite a while—ever since I got the opportunity to chat with Adam and his wife, vocalist Jane Nyberg, at the Dakota a few years ago. The band was good. The arrangements were swingin.'  Some nice tunes, and rip-roaring trumpet solos by Adam and also by one of his colleagues in the back row. 


Unfortunately, we arrived too late the hear Jane sing. I also considered it a little unfortunate that so much solo time was given over to the young guitarist in the band. The solos weren't bad ... but that guitar sound fits into the mix only marginally, in my opinion, and with so many obviously talented reed and brass performers in the group, it seemed odd that he was featured on all three of the tunes we heard.

But little matter. The crowd was good, the stormy weather was being held at bay by the jazz-gods, and with temperatures in the 90s, the arboreal landscaping in Mears Park was more inviting than ever.

Guitarist Russell Malone was next up on the main stage, but our plan was to check out a few of the other venues where local groups were performing, so we hoofed it up to the Amsterdam Bar, five blocks away, where we met some friends to hear a band named "No Room for Squares."

Nowadays anyone who uses the word "square" is probably a square. But the members of this band are dedicated to cultivating classical Bebop, and the name, which recalls an old Hank Mobley recording from 1963, is certainly appropriate to the sound.

The band was good. There were periods of grooving and periods of coasting during the solos, as usual, with Jon Pemberton on trumpet and Jimmy Wallace on tenor sax leading the way, and the energy was decent overall. A little of the excitement may have been dissipated in the yawning distance between the bandstand and the bench we were sitting on forty feet away. The dance floor was empty. (But that's what they always said about Bebop. You can't dance to it.)


On the other hand, I had the pleasure of sitting next to a young woman and a man who turned out to be her son. He's a jazz percussionist, he works in far-off Fosston, but he drove down for the fest and booked a room in a hotel. We chatted about drummers, and I bored them with a story about hearing Elvin Jones and Roy Haynes (forgot to mention Tony Williams!). 

She was looking forward to hearing Michael Franti and Spearhead (I'd never heard of him) and mused that next year she and her husband might book a room downtown themselves, the better to hear the late night jam sessions while avoiding the early-morning drive back to Oakdale.


We were also blessed with a very hip waiter, who recommended just the right dipping sauces for our fries!

Our next stop was a block away at the Vieux Carré to hear the Chris Lomheim Trio. We'd been there several times before—but never when it was crowded. It was fun to see the room full of people, and we scored a table within a few minutes, but while we were waiting for the waiter to arrive we decided we'd just as soon move on.


Out on the street we ran into a woman who was also just leaving.

"I've never seen the place so packed," I said.

"Yeah, but was anybody listening?" she replied, a little haughtily. She seemed to be upset that all that good music was going to waste, almost impossible to hear over the din of conversation.

"You should come on a Monday night," I replied. "You'd have the place all to yourself."

She didn't seem to like that idea, either, and I felt sad for her as she walked off alone into the evening heat.

We headed off in a different direction, back to Lowertown to check out the newly-remodeled Black Dog.  Along the way we stopped at the main stage to catch Russell Malone's last number. I was already a little tired of jazz guitar by that time, but I sat in the front row and "listened with interest" before rejoining Hilary and our friends, who were dipping their feet in the stream that flows through the park.


Then on to the Black Dog. The old place was cramped, but it had flavor. The expanded version has more room for tables ... but the walls are white and I wonder what the vibe will turn out to be. I ordered an Iowa Mule at the bar (because a friend of mine had been talking about that drink recently) and I heard the woman who took my order say to another woman behind the bar, "How do you make an Iowa Mule?"

Hilary asked one waitress how she liked the new layout.

"It's like a new restaurant," the woman said. "I'm happy for the owners, but I feel like I'm working at an entirely new job. I liked the old place better."


I'm not sure about the venue, but it took a long time for the Lucia Sarmiento group to set up, and all the while I was wishing we'd gone to hear the Pete Whitman Xtet with Lucia Newell at the nearby Union Depot.

Music and venues. That's what it's all about. Different styles, different eras. You want the powerful, ecstatic performance in an intimate space, and even five minutes at the highest level can make an event worthwhile.  At the Twin Cities Jazz Festival, the "festival" sometimes turns out to be more important than the jazz.